REBRANDED, NOT RECOGNISED: THE SILENT ERASURE OF INDIAN FASHION
- Shritha Chillappagari
- Jul 15
- 4 min read
A compelling look at how Indian fashion is celebrated globally yet often stripped of its cultural identity and rightful credit
Indian fashion is increasingly visible on global runways—but not always under its own name. Sarees are called gowns, dupattas rebranded as “Scandinavian scarves”, and Kolhapuri-style chappals walk the runway without a single nod to their origin. From Alia Bhatt’s Cannes appearance to Prada’s latest collection, India’s rich design language is being silently repackaged—often stripped of its cultural context.
The Vanishing Credit
“Indian garments deserve to be acknowledged by their original names,” says Niti Gupta, Luxury & Design Alchemist, and Founder & Curator of The AFRA World, Escapades and Niti Gupta Events.
“Analogies like ‘gown’ or ‘scarf’ can help global audiences understand, but they should never replace the identity. Cultural integrity begins with calling things by their rightful names.”
Rama Rebbapragada, Designer and Founder of Studio Rama, notes, “It’s frustrating because it’s not just a mislabel—it erases generations of craftsmanship, culture, and emotion. These pieces carry regional identities. When they’re misrepresented, that legacy disappears.”
Understanding vs. Appropriating
The difference between respectful inspiration and cultural appropriation often lies in intent and acknowledgement. Niti believes, “It’s not just about using an aesthetic—it’s about understanding it, respecting it, and uplifting where it came from.”
Rama echoes that credit is the bare minimum. “If you don’t even mention that it’s rooted in Indian culture, how will the world know? Unless someone works in textiles, it is assumed to be just another global aesthetic. That kind of dismissal makes our cultural identity invisible—and that’s simply unfair.”
The selective acknowledgement of Indian aesthetics in global fashion reflects a deeper identity gap. Niti believes, “The issue is not selective use but the absence of consistent credit. Indian influences—from textiles to architecture—have shaped global fashion for decades, yet recognition remains rare.” She feels that it’s time these contributions were honoured and given their rightful place.
She also points out that this erasure isn’t new. “In the past, credit was often ignored. But with social media and growing awareness, the work of artisans can no longer be hidden.”
Stories Without Names
So, whose story is being told when Indian design is used abroad? And more importantly, who is being written out?
“The visuals may be celebrated,” Niti says, “but the voices behind them—the artisans, the communities—are left behind. Without them, the design loses its depth. Fashion must tell both the story and the legacy.”
Rama adds, “Often, it’s mostly the designer’s story that gets told. When someone with access to global platforms uses traditional craft but presents it as their own sophisticated creation, without crediting the origin, the weavers, or the process—this kind of dismissal is bound to happen.”
She believes we are partly to blame. “We rarely speak up when our culture is rebranded. Instead, we follow trends, rename our own creations, and get carried away by global narratives. If we stuck to our originality and design language, the world would follow.”
Niti agrees. “When artisans are excluded from global recognition, their motivation, pride, and generational skills suffer. Every artisan deserves their moment of validation. That’s how traditions survive.”
Building What We’ve Lost
For Rama, it’s not just about visibility—it’s about value. “What we’re losing is a major business opportunity. India has rich clusters of weavers. If a known designer working with, say, Chanderi, mentions the region and how traditional designs were adapted for global aesthetics, it would spark interest from international fashion houses. That kind of visibility uplifts the economy and elevates the craft.”
Despite the influence of Indian aesthetics, luxury labels rarely collaborate with Indian designers or craftspeople. Rama explains, “One reason is that involving the original makers can shift narrative control. And in the past, there were real issues—unstructured workflows, delays, lack of timelines. But much has improved. Now, what’s missing is a system. These inherent challenges have created barriers—but the time has come to prioritise Indian talent and build meaningful collaborations.”
A Responsibility to Credit
Brands, Niti believes, carry a responsibility. “Acknowledging cultural roots isn’t just about giving credit. It’s about building bridges, uplifting communities, and forming partnerships rooted in mutual respect.”
She continues, “Brands need to engage with the full story—who made it, how it was crafted, and what it represents. In the age of slow fashion, giving original creators their due isn’t just ethical—it adds meaning and depth.”
Rama echoes this sentiment. “Collaborate and co-create from the grassroots. Involve the weavers, the skill-builders, the people who refine and preserve the craft. Recognition becomes real when credit is shared across the chain.”
Indian fashion has always been more than just visual flair. It holds memory, identity, and pride. To borrow it without naming it is to erase everything it carries. If the global fashion world is willing to draw from India, it must also be willing to honour it—clearly, openly, and by name.
